{"id":566,"date":"2025-02-09T15:09:22","date_gmt":"2025-02-09T14:09:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/?p=566"},"modified":"2025-02-22T08:51:15","modified_gmt":"2025-02-22T07:51:15","slug":"566","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/?p=566","title":{"rendered":"Nakl\u00e1dan\u00fd z\u00e1zvor"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nakl\u00e1dan\u00fd z\u00e1zvor<\/h1>\n
\"Iluminace

Iluminace z\u00e1zvoru ve st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00e9m herb\u00e1\u0159i, Egerton MS 747, f. 105v<\/p><\/div>\n

Slovo z\u00e1zvor vych\u00e1z\u00ed z p\u016fvodn\u00edho ozna\u010den\u00ed zizinger.<\/em> Vyskytuje se ve velk\u00e9m mno\u017estv\u00ed pozd\u011b st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00fdch a ran\u011b novov\u011bk\u00fdch kucha\u0159ek, kter\u00e9 byly ur\u010deny pro tehdej\u0161\u00ed elitu. Pramen\u011b jej na na\u0161em \u00fazem\u00ed dokl\u00e1d\u00e1 ke sklonku 14. stolet\u00ed<\/strong> Klaret\u016fv Glos\u00e1\u0159<\/em>, d\u00e1le l\u00e9ka\u0159sk\u00e9 knihy a tak\u00e9 Sn\u00e1\u0159 velmi p\u011bkn\u00fd<\/em> Vav\u0159ince z B\u0159ezov\u00e9 z 1. poloviny 15. stolet\u00ed. N\u011bkter\u00e9 internetov\u00e9 zdroje kladou jeho nejran\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010deskou pramennou dataci do 13. stolet\u00ed, ale vzhledem k tomu, \u017ee neuv\u00e1d\u00ed zdroje, tak se mi spolehliv\u011bj\u0161\u00ed star\u0161\u00ed pramen nepoda\u0159ilo zat\u00edm dohledat. Velice obl\u00edben\u00e9 bylo jeho u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed v Anglii, odkud tak\u00e9 poch\u00e1z\u00ed tento recept, kde je dolo\u017een ji\u017e od 10. stolet\u00ed. Je uveden tak\u00e9 jako p\u0159\u00edsada v nejstar\u0161\u00ed zn\u00e1m\u00e9 kucha\u0159sk\u00e9 knize ze 13. stolet\u00ed sepsan\u00e9 v starod\u00e1n\u0161tin\u011b. Byl st\u011b\u017eejn\u00ed surovinou pro p\u0159\u00edpravu om\u00e1\u010dky Jance <\/em>ve francouzsk\u00e9 a anglick\u00e9 st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00e9 gastronomii. V na\u0161ich nejstar\u0161\u00edch kucha\u0159sk\u00fdch knih\u00e1ch jej nalezneme v kombinaci se sko\u0159ic\u00ed, mu\u0161k\u00e1tov\u00fdm o\u0159\u00ed\u0161kem a pep\u0159em. Dle dobov\u00fdch medic\u00ednsk\u00fdch p\u0159edstav m\u011bl m\u00edt moc proh\u0159\u00e1t organismus<\/strong>. P\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm \u017ealudek a jeho konzumace m\u011bla napom\u00e1hat lep\u0161\u00edmu tr\u00e1vic\u00edmu procesu. Proto j\u00edm kucha\u0159i v souladu s l\u00e9ka\u0159sk\u00fdmi na\u0159\u00edzen\u00edmi m\u011bli vylep\u0161ovat pokrmy tak, aby vykompenzovali jejich p\u0159irozenou povahu v souladu s u\u010den\u00edm o \u010dty\u0159ech t\u011blesn\u00fdch \u0161\u0165\u00e1v\u00e1ch. Krom\u011b toho, \u017ee m\u011bl j\u00eddlo vylep\u0161it, tak\u00e9 demonstroval nakolik je konzument majetn\u00fd, proto\u017ee si zakoupen\u00ed drah\u00e9ho z\u00e1zvoru m\u016f\u017ee dovolit.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Pokud je ko\u0159en z\u00e1zvoru v d\u016fsledku dlouh\u00e9 p\u0159epravy a skladov\u00e1n\u00ed seschl\u00fd, sta\u010d\u00ed jej na t\u0159i dny pono\u0159it do vody, kterou denn\u011b vym\u011b\u0148ujeme a znateln\u011b „o\u017eije“.<\/p><\/div>\n

Postup p\u0159\u00edpravy nakl\u00e1dan\u00e9ho z\u00e1zvoru poch\u00e1z\u00ed z\u00a0rukopisu sepsan\u00e9ho v\u00a0Anglii na sklonku 12. stolet\u00ed<\/strong>, kter\u00fd obsahuje mimo jin\u00e9 recepty na deset om\u00e1\u010dek Salamanta pictavensium<\/em>, je\u017e byly ur\u010deny jako p\u0159\u00edlohy k\u00a0r\u016fzn\u00fdm druh\u016fm mas. Jejich hlavn\u00ed funkc\u00ed bylo d\u00edky d\u016fmysln\u00e9mu snouben\u00ed chut\u00ed vybran\u00fdch ingredienc\u00ed, kter\u00e9 se hod\u00ed ke konkr\u00e9tn\u00edmu druhu masa, vylep\u0161it pokrm. U\u017eit\u00ed salament<\/em> je dokladem vy\u0161\u0161\u00edho stupn\u011b gastronomie, je\u017e byl ur\u010den jen t\u011bm nejexkluzivn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm elit\u00e1m. Tedy panovnick\u00e9mu dvoru, \u0161lecht\u011b a vy\u0161\u0161\u00edmu kl\u00e9ru. B\u011b\u017en\u00ed lid\u00e9 v\u00a0t\u00e9 dob\u011b maso va\u0159ili \u010di dusili spolu s\u00a0dal\u0161\u00edmi ingrediencemi dohromady v\u00a0jednom hrnci. Odd\u011blen\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edprava masa a om\u00e1\u010dky m\u011bla vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1roky na vybaven\u00ed kuchyn\u011b, ale i schopnosti samotn\u00e9ho kucha\u0159e. V\u0161echna tato fakta ilustruj\u00ed, \u017ee recepty byly ur\u010deny pouze hrstce vyvolen\u00fdch<\/strong> a nemohl si je v\u00a0t\u00e9to dob\u011b tedy dop\u0159\u00e1t ka\u017ed\u00fd. Nav\u00edc se jedn\u00e1 o dosud nejstar\u0161\u00ed zn\u00e1me recepty na salamenta<\/em>. V\u00edce informaci o tomto pramenu naleznete v anglicky psan\u00e9m odborn\u00e9m \u010dl\u00e1nku ZDE<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Mezi salamenty<\/em>, tedy om\u00e1\u010dkami byl za\u0159azen i recept na nakl\u00e1dan\u00fd z\u00e1zvor, kter\u00fd byl velice drah\u00fdm a exklusivn\u00edm ko\u0159en\u00edm, proto\u017ee se do Evropy, jak ji\u017e bylo zm\u00edn\u011bno, dov\u00e1\u017eel. Doprava trvala \u0159adu t\u00fddn\u016f<\/strong>, a tak ko\u0159en z\u00e1zvoru jist\u011b nemohl b\u00fdt v\u00a0tak perfektn\u00edm stavu, jak jej dnes b\u011b\u017en\u011b nalezneme v\u00a0obchod\u011b. Proto se tak\u00e9 m\u011bl p\u0159ed samotnou p\u0159\u00edpravou namo\u010dit do \u010dist\u00e9 vody. Kurkuma, kterou recept obsahuje se ve st\u0159edov\u011bku naz\u00fdvala indick\u00fd \u0161afr\u00e1n<\/strong> a byla to jeho levn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1hra\u017eka, kter\u00e1 nalezla vyu\u017eit\u00ed, jak v\u00a0gastronomii, tak v\u00a0r\u00e1mci barven\u00ed l\u00e1tek. I v\u0161echno dal\u0161\u00ed ko\u0159en\u00ed, kter\u00e9 recept obsahuje se do Evropy dov\u00e1\u017eelo, co\u017e n\u00e1kladnost tohoto receptu posouvalo do astronomick\u00fdch v\u00fd\u0161in<\/strong>. V\u00fdsledek ale stoj\u00ed jednozna\u010dn\u011b za to, pokud jste milovn\u00edci ost\u0159ej\u0161\u00edch chut\u00ed.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Recept<\/h2>\n

0,5 kg co nej\u010derstv\u011bj\u0161\u00edho ko\u0159ene z\u00e1zvoru, 0,5 l medu, galg\u00e1n, h\u0159eb\u00ed\u010dek, sko\u0159ice, kurkuma, pep\u0159<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"

Ko\u0159en\u00ed je dobr\u00e9 nadrtit a\u017e t\u011bsn\u011b p\u0159ed jeho vm\u00edch\u00e1n\u00edm do medu.<\/p><\/div>\n

Ko\u0159eny z\u00e1zvoru omyjeme a p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b na t\u0159i dny um\u00edst\u00edme do misky s \u010distou vodou tak, aby byly v\u0161echny ko\u0159eny alespo\u0148 \u010d\u00e1ste\u010dn\u011b pod vodou. Ka\u017ed\u00fd den vodu vym\u011bn\u00edme a t\u0159et\u00ed den v\u0161echen z\u00e1zvor op\u011bt pe\u010dliv\u011b omyjeme. Z\u00e1zvor by m\u011bl touto dobou ji\u017e trochu pu\u010det, nebo alespo\u0148 vypadat sv\u011b\u017ee a neb\u00fdt tak seschl\u00fd, jako kdy\u017e jsme jej koupili. Pokud je z\u00e1zvor p\u0159i n\u00e1kupu \u010derstv\u00fd, m\u016f\u017eeme m\u00e1\u010den\u00ed ve vod\u011b vynechat. Pokud nen\u00ed med vy\u010di\u0161t\u011bn\u00fd a je tak\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b zcukernat\u011bl\u00fd, tak jej vlo\u017e\u00edme do vodn\u00ed l\u00e1zn\u011b a nech\u00e1me na m\u00edrn\u00e9m stupni oh\u0159evu tak, aby neprobubl\u00e1val, ale rozpustil se. Nech\u00e1me jej tak p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b po dobu t\u0159iceti minut, kdy z jeho povrchu sb\u00edr\u00e1me p\u0159\u00edpadn\u00e9 ne\u010distoty a tvo\u0159\u00edc\u00ed se p\u011bnu.<\/p>\n

Mezi t\u00edm oloupeme z\u00e1zvor a pod\u00e9ln\u011b jej nakr\u00e1j\u00edme na tenk\u00e9 pl\u00e1tky. Med nalijeme do \u010dist\u011b vymyt\u00e9 n\u00e1doby, ve kter\u00e9 budeme konzervovan\u00fd z\u00e1zvor skladovat. (Modern\u011b m\u016f\u017eeme pou\u017e\u00edt zava\u0159ovac\u00ed sklenici.) P\u0159id\u00e1me pl\u00e1tky z\u00e1zvoru, kter\u00e9 do medu opatrn\u011b vm\u00edch\u00e1me, aby nevy\u010dn\u00edvaly nad jeho hladinu. Sm\u011bs nech\u00e1me odst\u00e1t p\u0159es noc. Pokud z\u00e1zvor vylou\u010d\u00ed \u0161\u0165\u00e1vu, m\u011bli bychom podle receptu z\u00e1zvor vyjmout a zb\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00ed sm\u011bs sva\u0159it, a\u017e op\u011bt zhoustne. J\u00e1 jsem to neud\u011blala kv\u016fli degradaci medu v pr\u016fb\u011bhu dlouh\u00e9ho va\u0159en\u00ed. M\u00edsto toho jsem tekutinu slila a z\u0159ed\u011bnou vypila a z\u00e1zvor zalila nov\u00fdm medem. Potom v hmo\u017ed\u00ed\u0159i nadrt\u00edme ko\u0159en\u00ed v pom\u011bru: 1 d\u00edl galg\u00e1nu, 1 d\u00edl h\u0159eb\u00ed\u010dku, 1 d\u00edl sko\u0159ice, 1 d\u00edl kurkumy, 2 d\u00edly \u010dern\u00e9ho pep\u0159e a vm\u00edch\u00e1me do sm\u011bsi z\u00e1zvoru a medu. V chladu potom nech\u00e1me alespo\u0148 t\u00fdden odst\u00e1t. (J\u00e1 zvolila z technick\u00fdch d\u016fvod\u016f ledni\u010dku.) Skladujeme v chladn\u00e9m such\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Z\u00e1zvor po 14. dnech od nalo\u017een\u00ed m\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b sladkou chu\u0165 a trochu ztrat\u00ed ze sv\u00e9 ostrosti, ale st\u00e1le bych jej doporu\u010dila jen t\u011bm, kte\u0159\u00ed jsou zvykl\u00ed na ost\u0159ej\u0161\u00ed chut\u011b. (Foceno v modern\u00ed sklenici, aby vynikla jeho barva.)<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

Literatura a internetov\u00e9 zdroje: <\/strong><\/p>\n

Feyfrl\u00edkov\u00e1 \u010cern\u00e1 Monika, Gastronomie \u010desk\u00e9ho st\u0159edov\u011bku<\/em>, Co lid\u00e9 jedli a pili, jak stolovali a hodovali, Praha 2024<\/p>\n

Gasper, G. E., & Wallis, F. (2016). Salsamenta pictavensium: Gastronomy and Medicine in Twelfth-Century England. The English Historical Review, 131(553), 1353-1385.\u00a0https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1093\/ehr\/cex013<\/a><\/p>\n

Scully Terence,\u00a0The art of cookery,\u00a0<\/em>In the middle ages, <\/em>Woodbridge 2005<\/p>\n

https:\/\/blogs.bl.uk\/\u2026tml<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nakl\u00e1dan\u00fd z\u00e1zvor Slovo z\u00e1zvor vych\u00e1z\u00ed z p\u016fvodn\u00edho ozna\u010den\u00ed zizinger. Vyskytuje se ve velk\u00e9m mno\u017estv\u00ed pozd\u011b st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00fdch a ran\u011b novov\u011bk\u00fdch kucha\u0159ek, kter\u00e9 byly ur\u010deny pro tehdej\u0161\u00ed elitu. Pramen\u011b jej na na\u0161em \u00fazem\u00ed dokl\u00e1d\u00e1 ke sklonku 14. stolet\u00ed Klaret\u016fv Glos\u00e1\u0159, d\u00e1le l\u00e9ka\u0159sk\u00e9 knihy a tak\u00e9 Sn\u00e1\u0159 velmi p\u011bkn\u00fd Vav\u0159ince z B\u0159ezov\u00e9 z 1. poloviny 15. stolet\u00ed. N\u011bkter\u00e9 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":580,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[54,56,53,13,55],"class_list":["post-566","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-o-stredoveke-gastronomii","tag-anglie","tag-koreni","tag-recept","tag-stredovek","tag-zazvor"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/566","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=566"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/566\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":649,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/566\/revisions\/649"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/580"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=566"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=566"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=566"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}