{"id":927,"date":"2026-01-04T13:56:53","date_gmt":"2026-01-04T12:56:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/?p=927"},"modified":"2026-01-04T17:27:38","modified_gmt":"2026-01-04T16:27:38","slug":"bellarie-z-barokni-kuchyne-na-kouzelny-stul","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/?p=927","title":{"rendered":"Bellarie \u2013 z barokn\u00ed kuchyn\u011b na kouzeln\u00fd st\u016fl"},"content":{"rendered":"

Ve dnech 7. \u2013 8. \u0159\u00edjna prob\u00edhal v\u00a0\u010cesk\u00e9m Krumlov\u011b interdisciplin\u00e1rn\u00ed workshop s\u00a0kurzy experiment\u00e1ln\u00ed retrogastronomie. V\u00a0jeho r\u00e1mci se uskute\u010dnily kurzy Pe\u010den\u00ed podle Conrada Haggera: ornament\u00e1ln\u00ed pa\u0161tiky a marcip\u00e1n, d\u00e1le kurz Ro\u017en\u011bn\u00ed, pe\u010den\u00ed a du\u0161en\u00ed na otev\u0159en\u00e9m ohni\u0161ti, kter\u00e9ho jsem m\u011bla mo\u017enost se \u00fa\u010dastnit. Konal se v\u00a0unik\u00e1tn\u00ed nov\u011b zrekonstruovan\u00e9 kuchyni v\u00a0Bellarii. Na programu se pod\u00edlela cel\u00e1 \u0159ada tuzemsk\u00fdch a zahrani\u010dn\u00edch odborn\u00edk\u016f, nap\u0159\u00edklad Ivan Patrick Day, Irena Korbel\u00e1\u0159ov\u00e1 a Milan Svoboda. <\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/h2>\n

Mimo\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e1 kuchyn\u011b letohr\u00e1dku Bellarie<\/h2>\n
\"Credit:

Ornament\u00e1ln\u00ed pa\u0161tika spolu s unik\u00e1tn\u00edm historick\u00fdm kuchy\u0148sk\u00fdm n\u00e1\u010din\u00edm z obdob\u00ed novov\u011bku. (Autor fotografie: V\u00e1clav Pleska)<\/p><\/div>\n

Letohr\u00e1dek Bellarie se nach\u00e1z\u00ed v\u00a0zahrad\u00e1ch \u010ceskokrumlovsk\u00e9ho z\u00e1mku a v\u00a0letech 2023-2024 pro\u0161el rozs\u00e1hlou rekonstrukc\u00ed. Jedn\u00e1 se o rokokovou stavbu<\/strong>, kter\u00e1 je unik\u00e1tn\u00ed mimo jin\u00e9 i d\u00edky velice dob\u0159e zachoval\u00e9 barokn\u00ed kuchyni, je\u017e se nach\u00e1z\u00ed v\u00a0jej\u00edm suter\u00e9nu. A\u010dkoliv jsem m\u011bla mo\u017enost va\u0159it v\u00a0\u0159ad\u011b \u010desk\u00fdch historick\u00fdch kuchyn\u00ed, kter\u00e9 umo\u017e\u0148uj\u00ed p\u0159\u00edpravu dobov\u00fdch recept\u016f autentick\u00fdmi zp\u016fsoby na otev\u0159en\u00e9m ohni\u0161ti, z\u00e1\u017eitek byl v\u00fdjime\u010dn\u00fd t\u00edm, \u017ee se zde dochoval p\u016fvodn\u00ed mechanick\u00fd ro\u017ee\u0148<\/strong>. D\u00e1le je zde rozm\u011brn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed topeni\u0161t\u011b, spor\u00e1ky na d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 uhl\u00ed a p\u00edcka. Mezi dal\u0161\u00ed bellarijsk\u00e9 divy se \u0159ad\u00ed dochovan\u00e9 funk\u010dn\u00ed zdvi\u017ee, kter\u00e9 umo\u017e\u0148uj\u00ed transport uva\u0159en\u00fdch pokrm\u016f bu\u010f p\u0159\u00edmo z\u00a0kuchyn\u011b do t\u0159et\u00edho podla\u017e\u00ed Horn\u00edho s\u00e1lu, nebo p\u0159es p\u0159\u00edpravnu prost\u0159ednictv\u00edm takzvan\u00e9ho kouzeln\u00e9ho stolu do j\u00eddelny. Pr\u00e1v\u011b experiment\u00e1ln\u00ed prezentace<\/strong> jeho provozu se mi nesmazateln\u011b zapsala do pam\u011bti.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Teorie a praxe<\/h2>\n
\"Credit:

\u0160pikov\u00e1n\u00ed bylo v 18. stolet\u00ed velice m\u00f3dn\u00ed z\u00e1le\u017eitost\u00ed a my si jej mohli vyzkou\u0161et s pomoc\u00ed n\u00e1stroj\u016f z t\u00e9to doby. (Autor fotografie: Matou\u0161 Vokat\u00fd)<\/p><\/div>\n

V\u00a0r\u00e1mci programu jsme m\u011bli mo\u017enost prohl\u00e9dnout si sb\u00edrku kucha\u0159sk\u00fdch knih<\/strong> ze z\u00e1meck\u00e9 knihovny a d\u00e1le tak\u00e9 absolvovat komentovanou prohl\u00eddku Bellarie vedenou kastel\u00e1nem Pavlem Slavkem. N\u00e1sledovaly p\u0159edn\u00e1\u0161ky na t\u00e9mata rokokov\u00e9 gastronomie<\/strong>, role slu\u017eebnictva p\u0159i stolov\u00e1n\u00ed \u0161lechty v\u00a018. stolet\u00ed a fenom\u00e9nu takzvan\u00e9ho kouzeln\u00e9ho stolu. Druh\u00fd den n\u00e1sledoval workshop v\u00a0kuchyni Bellarie, kde si frekventanti kurzu mohli na vlastn\u00ed k\u016f\u017ei vyzkou\u0161et, co obn\u00e1\u0161\u00ed va\u0159en\u00ed v\u00a0historick\u00e9 kuchyni. Byl to p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm v\u0161udyp\u0159\u00edtomn\u00fd kou\u0159<\/strong>, kter\u00fd m\u00e9n\u011b zvykl\u00e9 \u00fa\u010dastn\u00edky tr\u00e1pil, jeliko\u017e se vzhledem k\u00a0nedostate\u010dn\u00fdm zku\u0161enostem s\u00a0t\u00edmto konkr\u00e9tn\u00edm provozem, neda\u0159ilo nastavit spr\u00e1vn\u00fd odvod kou\u0159e kom\u00ednem.<\/p>\n

\"Credit:

Ivan Patrick Day pat\u0159\u00ed k celosv\u011btov\u011b nejuzn\u00e1van\u011bj\u0161\u00edm odborn\u00edk\u016fm na historickou gastronomii. Vysv\u011btlil n\u00e1m, jak spr\u00e1vn\u011b napichovat pt\u00e1ky na ro\u017ee\u0148. (Autor fotografie: V\u00e1clav Pleska)<\/p><\/div>\n

Pro m\u011b byl nejzaj\u00edmav\u011bj\u0161\u00edm zji\u0161t\u011bn\u00edm kl\u00ed\u010d k\u00a0tomu, v\u00a0jak\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b se v\u00a0novov\u011bku pt\u00e1ci pekli s\u00a0nohami<\/strong> a kdy bez nich. Ivan Patrick Day n\u00e1m jej, v\u00a0r\u00e1mci jeho p\u0159edn\u00e1\u0161ky a z\u00e1rove\u0148 demonstrace p\u0159\u00edpravy ope\u0159ence na ro\u017eni, odhalil. Z\u00e1le\u017e\u00ed na tom, zda se jedn\u00e1 o pt\u00e1ka vodn\u00edho \u010di suchozemsk\u00e9ho. Vodn\u00edm se kon\u010detiny usek\u00e1valy, proto\u017ee byly zne\u010di\u0161t\u011bny pobytem v\u00a0bahn\u011b, zat\u00edmco pt\u00e1ci \u017eij\u00edc\u00ed na sou\u0161i, se p\u0159ipravovali v\u010detn\u011b nich. Skv\u011blou zku\u0161enost\u00ed pro m\u011b byla tak\u00e9 mo\u017enost vyzkou\u0161et si \u0161pikov\u00e1n\u00ed jehlami z\u00a018. stolet\u00ed<\/strong>, kter\u00e9 bylo v\u00a0t\u00e9to dob\u011b m\u00f3dn\u00ed z\u00e1le\u017eitost\u00ed a velice m\u011b obohatila demonstrace instalace pt\u00e1k\u016f a pe\u010den\u00ed na ro\u017ee\u0148. L\u00e9pe jsem tak\u00e9 porozum\u011bla specifick\u00fdm mechanism\u016fm organizace chodu barokn\u00ed a rokokov\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"

(Autor fotografie: V\u00e1clav Pleska)<\/p><\/div>\n

Mus\u00edm tak\u00e9 velice ocenit pan\u00ed profesorku Irenu Korbel\u00e1\u0159ovou, kter\u00e1 se v\u011bnovala p\u0159\u00edprav\u011b pokrm\u016f s\u00a0obrovsk\u00fdm nasazen\u00edm<\/strong>. P\u0159izn\u00e1m se, \u017ee v\u00a0t\u00e9to souvislosti n\u011bkdy sama v\u00a0r\u00e1mci mnou veden\u00fdch workshop\u016f z\u00e1pol\u00edm s\u00a0t\u00edm, nakolik m\u00e1m kurzist\u016fm asistovat \u010di suroviny p\u0159edem p\u0159ipravit a nakolik je m\u00e1m nechat \u201enapospas jejich osudu\u201c, aby si tak samostatn\u011b mohli v\u00edce zdokonalit sv\u016fj um a schopnosti. Pov\u011bt\u0161inou vol\u00edm prvn\u00ed mo\u017enost a n\u011bkdy mi v\u00a0bellarisk\u00e9 kuchyni p\u0159i\u0161la \u0161koda, \u017ee n\u00e1s coby kurzisty organiz\u00e1to\u0159i nenechali se do d\u011bn\u00ed v kuchyni v\u00edce zapojit. Nap\u0159\u00edklad do manipulace s\u00a0kuchy\u0148sk\u00fdm vybaven\u00edm na topeni\u0161ti a spor\u00e1c\u00edch. A\u010dkoliv m\u00e1m pochopen\u00ed<\/strong> pro jejich velice p\u00e1dn\u00fd argument spojen\u00fd s\u00a0obavou o na\u0161i bezpe\u010dnost.<\/p>\n

Lehce jsem byla tak\u00e9 zasko\u010dena mno\u017estv\u00edm modern\u00edch<\/strong> prvk\u016f v\u00a0t\u00e9to jinak historicky kr\u00e1sn\u011b zachoval\u00e9 kuchyni. I kdy\u017e zp\u011btn\u011b spekuluji, \u017ee se tak mohlo s\u00a0nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed pravd\u011bpodobnost\u00ed d\u00edt kv\u016fli zachov\u00e1n\u00ed dne\u0161n\u00edch hygienick\u00fdch standard\u016f p\u0159i experiment\u00e1ln\u00ed p\u0159\u00edprav\u011b pokrm\u016f. Na druhou stranu jsem velice vd\u011b\u010dn\u00e1<\/strong>, \u017ee mi pan Svoboda dovolil se kurzu \u00fa\u010dastnit v\u00a0mnou zhotoven\u00e9 ide\u00e1ln\u00ed rekonstrukci od\u011bvu, kter\u00fd by v\u00a0t\u00e9to dob\u011b kucha\u0159ka \u010di pomocn\u00fd person\u00e1l v\u00a0kuchyni mohli skute\u010dn\u011b nosit. Byla to pro m\u011b nedoceniteln\u00e1 zku\u0161enost, jeliko\u017e takov\u00fd od\u011bv umo\u017e\u0148uje specifick\u00fd pohyb<\/strong>, tak\u017ee jsem si d\u00edky tomu mohla ud\u011blat lep\u0161\u00ed p\u0159edstavu o tom, jak se m\u00fdm p\u0159edk\u016fm v\u00a0takov\u00fdch prostor\u00e1ch pracovalo.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Osln\u011bni magnificentn\u00edm kouzeln\u00fdm stolem<\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Credit:

Kouzeln\u00fd st\u016fl zachycen\u00fd okam\u017eik p\u0159ed t\u00edm, ne\u017e se z p\u0159\u00edpravny pomoc\u00ed d\u016fmysln\u00e9ho za\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed vznese do j\u00eddelny. (Autor fotografie: Matou\u0161 Vokat\u00fd)<\/p><\/div>\n

Doslova zlat\u00fdm h\u0159ebem cel\u00e9ho workshopu byla experiment\u00e1ln\u00ed prezentace provozu, aran\u017eov\u00e1n\u00ed a serv\u00edrov\u00e1n\u00ed takzvan\u00e9ho kouzeln\u00e9ho stolu<\/strong>, je\u017e prob\u011bhla ve\u010der v\u00a0sam\u00e9m z\u00e1v\u011bru kurzu. Jeliko\u017e jsem i zde cht\u011bla pro\u017e\u00edt co nejv\u00edce autentick\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek, kter\u00fd by m\u011b p\u0159ibl\u00ed\u017eil tomu, jak na\u0161i p\u0159edci mohli danou chv\u00edli pro\u017e\u00edvat, rozhodla jsem se, \u017ee se i pro tuto p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitost oble\u010du do ide\u00e1ln\u00ed historick\u00e9 rekonstrukce, i kdy\u017e pom\u011brn\u011b prost\u00fdch rokokov\u00fdch \u0161at\u016f. A rozhodn\u011b to st\u00e1lo za to, a\u010dkoliv jsem, v\u00a0d\u016fsledku zna\u010dn\u00e9ho stla\u010den\u00ed \u017ealudku korzetem, nemohla ochutnat v\u011bt\u0161inu laskomin<\/strong>, je\u017e jsme v\u00a0pr\u016fb\u011bhu dne p\u0159ipravili.<\/p>\n

\"Credit:

Uh\u00e1dli byste, \u017ee se r\u016f\u017eov\u00e9 z\u00e1kusky na eta\u017e\u00e9ru dodnes pr\u016fmyslov\u011b vyr\u00e1b\u00ed podle p\u016fvodn\u00ed receptury z 18. stolet\u00ed? (Autor fotografie: V\u00e1clav Pleska)<\/p><\/div>\n

Na prvn\u00edm m\u00edst\u011b mus\u00edm vyzdvihnout s\u00a0jakou gr\u00e1ci\u00ed se panu Svobodovi<\/strong> poda\u0159ilo skloubit prezentaci kouzeln\u00e9ho stolu v r\u00e1mci v\u0161ech smyslov\u00fdch vjem\u016f<\/strong>. Nejenom, \u017ee jsme mohli na moment usednout do autentick\u00fdch k\u0159esel okolo kouzeln\u00e9ho stolu a kochat se postupn\u011b se st\u0159\u00eddaj\u00edc\u00edmi aran\u017em\u00e1, kter\u00e1 z\u00a0n\u011bj bu\u010f stoupla \u010di zp\u011bt zaj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bla do jeho nitra, aby v\u00a0p\u0159\u00edpravn\u011b mohla b\u00fdt obm\u011bn\u011bna. Pro\u017e\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed umoc\u0148oval hudebn\u00ed doprovod<\/strong> loutnisty a \u010dich okouzlila omamn\u00e1 v\u016fn\u011b kadidla. Chu\u0165ov\u00e9 poh\u00e1rky potom zam\u011bstnalo prav\u00e9 \u0161ampa\u0148sk\u00e9, kter\u00e9 se v\u00a0r\u00e1mci prezentace pod\u00e1valo. Mus\u00edm konstatovat, \u017ee tomuto v\u00a0pravd\u011b bo\u017esk\u00e9mu z\u00e1\u017eitku<\/strong> nebylo co vytknout a \u0159ad\u00ed se mezi nejsiln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, je\u017e jsem v\u00a0r\u00e1mci zkoum\u00e1n\u00ed historick\u00e9 gastronomie za\u017eila.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Sest\u0159ih videa z experiment\u00e1ln\u00ed prezentace provozu, aran\u017eov\u00e1n\u00ed a serv\u00edrov\u00e1n\u00ed takzvan\u00e9ho kouzeln\u00e9ho stolu<\/strong> ZDE<\/a>.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Pokud byste si cht\u011bli poslechnout rozhovor s\u00a0Ivanem Patrickem Dayem od N\u00e1rodn\u00edho pam\u00e1tkov\u00e9ho \u00fastavu, je k\u00a0dispozici<\/strong> ZDE<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"Credit:

Pohled na kouzeln\u00fd st\u016fl shora z prostoru j\u00eddelny. (Autor fotografie: Matou\u0161 Vokat\u00fd)<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

\nhttps:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/FBDownloader.to-1768481490539536-1080p.mp4<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ve dnech 7. \u2013 8. \u0159\u00edjna prob\u00edhal v\u00a0\u010cesk\u00e9m Krumlov\u011b interdisciplin\u00e1rn\u00ed workshop s\u00a0kurzy experiment\u00e1ln\u00ed retrogastronomie. V\u00a0jeho r\u00e1mci se uskute\u010dnily kurzy Pe\u010den\u00ed podle Conrada Haggera: ornament\u00e1ln\u00ed pa\u0161tiky a marcip\u00e1n, d\u00e1le kurz Ro\u017en\u011bn\u00ed, pe\u010den\u00ed a du\u0161en\u00ed na otev\u0159en\u00e9m ohni\u0161ti, kter\u00e9ho jsem m\u011bla mo\u017enost se \u00fa\u010dastnit. Konal se v\u00a0unik\u00e1tn\u00ed nov\u011b zrekonstruovan\u00e9 kuchyni v\u00a0Bellarii. Na programu se pod\u00edlela cel\u00e1 \u0159ada […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":929,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[15],"tags":[101,104,105,106,107,108,103,110,109,102,11],"class_list":["post-927","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-gastronomieceskehostredoveku-cz-uplynule","tag-baroko","tag-bellarie","tag-cesky-krumlov","tag-ivan-patrick-day","tag-kouzelny-stul","tag-kurz","tag-novovek","tag-ornamentalni-pastiky","tag-pecene","tag-rokoko","tag-workshop"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/927","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=927"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/927\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":942,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/927\/revisions\/942"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/929"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=927"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=927"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/culinahistorica.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=927"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}